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Thursday, January 30, 2014

Closing up the Brownie Goose Tilly- Part 1- "Open" Closed Back

I have been in love with Brownie Goose patterns since the moment I saw them! I have yet to make one that did not leave me swooning over the finished product. One of my all time favorites is the Tilly, hands down. I just adore the sweet square neckline and it goes together sew fast! I have made several different versions of the Tilly and wanted to take a moment and share you how to make a wonderful pattern even more versatile!
First off- for those that don't love the original design with the open back look (pictured above) for personal reasons or maybe you just live in a cooler climate- the great news is there are two easy ways to close the Tilly up- the “Open” closed back Tilly or the fully closed back Tilly. This post will give the details of the "open" closed back version featured below and if you want to see the fully closed back version visit here.
Once you have visited the Brownie Goose shop and bought your Tilly pattern- Trace and cut pattern per instructions. Follow the construction steps laid out by the fabulous Amy of Brownie Goose until the part where you make a notch for the open back on page 6 (at least page 6 of the version available at the time of this posting)- just omit this. You then follow along with Amy’s awesome instructions until page 8- sew along her purple lines everywhere but the very bottom- don’t sew along this line:
Skip over the remainder of Page 9 except for the all important clipping of seams. Then turn your beauty right side out and finish the armhole seams per pattern instructions. It should look like the picture below at this stage- open across the bottom from side to side.
The "open" version of the closed back simply means it can still be lifted open although the back is fully covered when standing still! I still used a SW (selvedge width) of fabric for a 2/3 Tilly and found it was plenty full. This is where you should just use your judgment- if you want a super full skirt on a larger size you probably need more fabric! Finish the edges per pattern instructions and then run your gathering stitches across the top. Stretch that lovely skirt out from end to end of your bodice and pin in place. I attach with my sewing machine and then finish it off with the serger- but whatever makes you happy.  
You can then press upwards and top stitch if you love a top stitch! And finally- you do have to topstitch around the back edges to attach the backs together (and no it doesn't matter which side goes on top as evidenced by the pics below- I randomly did it a different way each time!). Then sew on your fabulous button and...

...you are done ladies!


 

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